Must-Have Tools: Part 4 - Adjustable Wrench

Next in our series is another iconic tool, the adjustable wrench. Commonly referred to as a crescent wrench, (referring to Crescent Manufacturing, a prominent manufacturer of adjustable wrenches) the adjustable wrench is a tool designed to do only one job, but it does it well. That job is turning nuts and bolts. The beauty of the adjustable wrench is that it can turn any nut or bolt of any size that will fit between the jaws, so long as it has two parallel sides.

An adjustable wrench. This one has a blue non-slip rubber
coating on the handle, most are left as plain steel.

Using an adjustable wrench is fairly simple; there are two parallel flat metal jaws, one is fixed and the other is adjustable by turning a screw that can be turned using the knurled or ridged edges of the threads.

To turn a nut or bolt, loosen the jaws using the screw so that it is wider than the fastener to be turned,

and then tighten the jaws until they are snug on the sides of the fastener,

then simply turn the handle and the fastener turns with it.


The important idiom to remember when using an adjustable wrench is “righty tighty, lefty loosy” which is basically an easy way to remember that almost all fasteners will go forward (or tighten or go in) if you turn them to the right (clockwise) and reverse (or loosen or come out) if you turn it to the left (counterclockwise).

However, getting the most out of this simple tool take some effort. Most of the fasteners you will be turning with an adjustable wrench will not be easily accessible from all sides, this means that the wrench will have to be removed and repositioned after each swing of the handle, which only turns the handle a fraction of one full revolution. The adjustab le wrench’s angled handle can assist with this, allowing you to get a swing of the handle turn each time. In a tight space the wrench can be flipped so that the angle of the handle allows it to fit around an obstruction on one side of the other. With all of this removal and readjustment, however, there is a high probability that the jaw will become misadjusted, therefore it is very important to ensure that the jaws are tight around the fastener at every turn. If they become loose and you still turn the wrench, the bolt can become “rounded over” meaning that the sharp angled corners of the nut or bolt become blunted and eventually will not allow the wrench to grab onto them to rotate the screw. This makes it very difficult to turn the nut or bolt. If you come across a fastener that will not turn with the wrench, or where it is impossible to use with the wrench in its proper position (i. e. with the jaws parallel and in the same plane as the fastener) do not attempt to use it to turn the fastener, it could cause damage to the fastener or the nut and possibly cause injury. There are several other more specialized tools and techniques that can be used on stubborn or difficult to access fasteners and I will address these in a future post.

However, if access is not an issue with the fastener, there is a right and a wrong way to turn the wrench to minimize wear to the adjustment mechanism. If you turn the wrench with the movable jaw towards the direction you’re turning the wrench it will put less strain on the movable jaw and protect the mechanism. Another thing to keep in mind is to try to keep dirt and debris out of the adjustment mechanism, it is good to keep the mechanism as tight as possible, leaving very little “play” or space between the teeth in the underside of the movable jaw, and the screw, but if too much debris gets in, the jaw can become extremely difficult to adjust, making the tool hard to use. To alleviate problems with the adjustment mechanism there is a small screw on the edge of the wrench that will make the mechanism looser or tighter by moving the adjustment mechanism.

A close up side view of an adjustable wrench, the mechanism adjustment

screw is the flat-head screw directly above the word "China."

Some simple lubricating oil available at any reputable hardware store or home center can also help keep the mechanism running smoothly.

Like hammers, many folks have adjustable wrenches laying around in attics or garages that may have belonged to a grandparent or aunt or uncle. Maybe a handy relative has one that they will let you have. It’s not very important to have a brand new wrench or a top quality one; it’s a very simple tool that is easy to use. If you are buying a new one, top quality adjustable wrenches can cost up to 30 dollars or more, which is quite a bit for a tool that may only be used a few times a year. If you head out to a hardware store or home center, simply look for the cheapest wrench that feels solid. A good way to check if an adjustable wrench is well-made is to wiggle the adjustable jaw, on a well-made wrench the jaw should not wiggle more than 1/16th of an inch in either direction.

As far as safety goes, make sure that you follow all of the usage instructions laid out earlier in the post. In addition, make sure that you have enough clearance to safely swing the handle of the wrench when turning a fastener and that you make sure that your fingers are clear of any obstructions when you turn the wrench so you don’t whack your hand. Also, make sure that the fastener you are turning is in good condition and has relatively defined corners so that the jaws can grip it tightly. Make sure that the jaws are very tight to the sides of the fastener when turning as mentioned earlier in this post. And finally make sure that you don’t try to use it on a fastener that is too big for the wrench or is not accessible to the jaws.

And finally, wearing gloves and safety glasses is, as with any project using tools, a good idea.

Must-Have Tools: Part 3 - Claw Hammer

Editor's note:
As I mentioned in my first post, I have been in the process of finding my first job out of college. Having finally gotten that job and settling in, I finally have time to start posting again. So after a long hiatus, we continue in the must have tools series.

Next in the must-have tools series we have the claw hammer. This is probably the stereotypical tool of the average handyman in most people’s minds, and with good reason- before the modern days of cordless screwdrivers, hammers were used to fasten or attach nearly everything. Today, the usefulness of the hammer around the house has somewhat diminished, but it is still certainly one of the handiest tools around.


The most common function of the claw hammer is to drive in and remove nails. Nails are useful for many things around the house: hanging pictures, securing loose trim pieces etc. In addition, hammers are used to power other implements at times, such as certain types of chisels, or actuating special tools used to drive nails into concrete.

All claw hammers have a metal head, which is the part used to drive in nails or strike other objects, and the claw that is used primarily to remove nails. The head and claw are usually forged from one solid piece of steel. The handle attaches to the head through a large hole that runs vertically through the head. Where modern hammers differ is generally in the material from which the handle is made and how the handle is attached to the head. The three most common materials for handles are wood steel and fiberglass.

From left to right, A wood handled claw hammer,
a fiberglass-handled rip hammer and a steel handled claw hammer

• Wood is the most traditional materials for handles. Wood handles are cut at one end to precisely fit the hole in the metal head, and then a wedge shaped piece of metal is driven in the top of the handle to expand it to fit very tightly in the head. Wooden handles have some drawbacks, the main one is that they can break fairly easily over time or if struck in the wrong place. In addition, the head can sometimes come loose from the handle as the wood dries out or is compressed by impact over time. These two drawbacks are also sometimes advantages, since if the handle breaks, it can be quickly and cheaply replaced, and if it just comes loose, another wedge can be put back in. In addition, wood handles can absorb some of the shock of the hammer blows so they are not transferred to your hand or arm.

• Steel handles are also common. These come in two varieties. One variety consists of a separate piece of metal that is firmly and permanantly attached to the head by machine (this type is the one shown in the photograph above). In the second variety, the handle and head are cast from one solid piece of steel. The advantages to metal handles are that they can be thinner, stronger, and are very unlikely to break, the drawbacks are that if for some reason the handle bends or breaks, the hammer can be rendered useless. However the chief complaint is that they do not absorb vibrations well which means they transmit most of the force of each swingto the users body.

• The final type is the most modern—fiberglass. These handles are the same size as the wooden handles and are very light and strong. They are a mix of the characteristics of metal and wooden handles. They are very strong like metal handles, but if they break can sometimes be replaced by wooden handles so the head can be salvaged. They also absorb vibration as well as wooden handles. Fiberglass and steel handles almost always come with rubber grips on the bottom half or two thirds of the hammer for comfort and to absorb some vibration.

When purchasing a hammer, keep these factors in mind. For the average homeowner a 16 oz head is plenty; make sure to pick up the hammer and see if you think it is balanced and if the grip feels good in your hand. In addition, on wood handled hammers make sure that the head is firmly attached to the handle and that the wood visible through the top of the head looks fairly intact. There is a similar type of hammer to the claw hammer, called the rip hammer which has a claw that is almost straight which allows it to be used to pry hammered boards apart. These hammers are sometimes called "framing hammers" (although this term is sometimes vague). Rip hammers are perfectly fine for use around the house, however it is generally more difficult to remove nails with them and they are usually heavier than the average hammer.

Before going out to buy a hammer, ask friends or relatives if they have an old one lying around; chances are they will, as hammers are the most common tools around and typically can last many generations. A good hammer will usually run somewhere around 10-20 dollars depending on features, very high quality hammers can go for 30 dollars up to over 100 for titanium hammers (which are lighter than steel and claim to be easier on the joints). In any case, a 15 dollar hammer should be all that someone needs unless they are swinging a hammer all day for more than a couple of days.

If you do end up buying a hammer, brand is of secondary importance. Your price point and the feel of the hammer take priority here. The main thing to watch out for is that the hammy seems solidly made—the head should be firmly attached to the hammer and the handle should feel comfortable and strong. If you plan to be using the hammer more than a few times a week and/or want a high-end hammer, two commonly available brands that I have had good experiences with are Stanley and Estwing.

Driving a nail, notice that the head of the hammer is
parallel with the head of the nail when the two meet.

Proper use and safety of hammers is important, as even a small 12 oz hammer when swung moderately hard can do significant damage to body parts (especially thumbs, which are frequently in the way and can be damaged with even a light swing). Always make sure to have a solid grip on the hammer, and to make sure that you focus on hitting the nail or implement squarely on the head. Accuracy is much, much more important that power when swinging a hammer so swing lightly at first until you gain the confidence that you will hit your target squarely and parallel to the head of the nail. Also make sure other people and your body parts are out of the path of the hammer. When driving nails, hold the nail with one hand then grip the hammer high on the handle with the other hand and tap lightly on the head of the nail until it sinks far enough into the material to stand on its own. Be very careful to aim accurately when doing this because you can easily hurt the fingers on the hand holding the nail even if you don’t swing the hammer very hard.

Removing a nail, the head of the nail is wedged between the claw.

Tips for using a hammer are to hold the hammer at the very bottom of the handle (keeping your entire hand on the handle) and swing firmly trying to hit the head of the nail with the center of the hammer face and keeping the face parallel with the head of the nail. This will allow you to sink the nail with fewer swings, thus reducing the chances for mistakes that could lead to damage or injuries.

If you bend a nail by hitting it off center, it is usually better to remove the nail and start with a new one. If it is bent more than a few degrees, it is very difficult to straighten a nail, and attempting to hammer in a bent nail can result in the nail sticking out from the surface of the material, which is a bad thing in most cases. When removing nails, use the same grip as you would when hammering and then wedge the head of the nail between the two claws as far as it will go to get a good grip on it. Then simply push on the handle in the opposite direction of the hammer and it should come out. If you come across a stubborn nail, you can place a block of wood underneath the top of the head to act as a fulcrum (for those familiar with physics). This will greatly increase the leverage you can put on the nail.

And finally, wearing gloves and safety glasses is, as with any project using tools, a good idea.

Must-Have Tools: Part 2 - Utility Knife

Next is a utility knife (also called razor knife or Stanley knife --after the most prominent manufacturer of the tool). This tool is extremely useful, and will likely find use in many non-home repair related tasks. However they are extremely sharp so proper safety is a must. But, if you buy one with a retractable blade (as you absolutely should), and keep the blade retracted when not in use, the risk of injury is minimized significantly.


The number one use for the utility knife around the house is probably drywall-related tasks, as it easily scores the paper backing on drywall. But of course it is useful for everything from scraping grout from between old tiles to cutting rope to opening the packages of other tools.

Quality is more important with this tool than with screwdrivers, as cheap knives can jam with the blade out, creating a perpetual problem. Many different types of utility knives exist; however make sure that you buy one that uses the trapezoidal-shaped blades:


(they're shaped this way so that each blade has two tips, so can be used twice). As mentioned before, the blade should be retractable. In addition, the handle should be sturdy and feel solid in your hand, as they need to withstand the significant amount of force needed to properly cut most materials. Most are bright colors so they can be easily kept track of for safety.

A good knife meeting these requirements can be had at the average hardware store or home center for five to ten dollars, the best for perhaps slightly more ($10-$15). Aside from this, there are many different designs, some have a pivoting handle, some flip out like a pocket knife, yet others can be reloaded without opening, however none of these features are necessary for most jobs, so are really a matter of personal choice more than functionality.





In addition, use quality blades, as cheap (read thin) blades can bend or break, creating both sharp flying debris, and a blade that is dangerous to use.

Because of this, you should also learn how to change the blades in your utility knife. I will hopefully post pictures in a future post, but the basic procedure involves removing the screw holding the two halves of the knife handle together and separating the two halves, revealing a blade storage area inside (usually new knives come with spare blades inside the handle). Then its simply a matter of replacing the old blade with a new one, or flipping the blade over and using the opposite side of the blade, provided it hasn't already been used. During this step, be sure to align the U-shaped cutouts at the top of the blade with the tab on the blade holder (see photo of blade, above). Then simply reverse the steps you use to take it apart to put it back together.

To use your utility knife, press down on the button on the top of the knife and slide it forward to expose the blade. Hold the handle firmly in your hand, and put your thumb behind the button so that the blade will not slide back into the handle accidentally. Then determine how much pressure will be needed to cut through your material. For thin materials, such as plastic sheeting, one pass should be enough to cut through, and will result in a cleaner cut. For most rope and garden hose one pass should be enough. When cutting rope it can help to fold the rope slightly and cut on the inside of the fold, ensuring that the blade is facing away from your body.

For thicker materials, such as wallboard (also called drywall or gypsum board), you will need to make several passes. Be very careful on the first pass, since it will act as a guide for subsequent passes. It is usually good to use a straight edge as a guide on the first pass. For wallboard in particular, score one side at least 2 to 3 times and then fold the wallboard away from the cut, and then cut the back of the fold you have made (once the gypsum center is broken, the paper on the back is all that holds it together). With other materials, use your best judgment to determine how much pressure and how many passes will be necessary. When in doubt use lighter pressure and make several passes, as too much pressure could potentially break the blade, which is very dangerous.

And of course, when finished with your cut, even if you will make another cut within a few minutes, push down on the button and slide the blade back into the handle. It is never good to leave utility knives laying around with the blade exposed.

When using this tool, the most important thing to be aware of is that you should have no part of your body in the path of the knife at any time, even if it is feet or yards away. These knives can easily slip from a surface and travel at great speed a few feet ahead, they are also so sharp it takes very little pressure to create a fairly severe laceration (I know this from personal experience). However, provided you learn how to use the knife and take a moment before using it to make sure that you and anyone else around you is out of the path of the blade, you should be safe.

And again, Wearing gloves and safety glasses is, as with any project using tools, a good idea.

Must-Have Tools: Part 1 - Screwdrivers

If you only have two tools, get one of each popular type of screwdriver:

A flat-head (also called common, or slotted)




and Phillips-head (also called just Phillips or rarely crosshead).



The flat-head screwdriver is probably the most versatile tool in the arsenal. Though of course it will do what its name suggests-- drive and remove flat-head (also called slotted) screws-- it can also be used as a makeshift prybar, a scraper, a punch (as in punching holes in drywall), icepick, the list goes on and on.

Where the flat-head is the multitasker, the Phillips-head makes its keep being the screwdriver of choice, as the majority of all screws these days are Phillips-head screws. This is because the design it much less prone to the screwdriver slipping out of the head of the screw, and allows much better control (though the design does have its deficiencies, which I will talk about in a later post).

When buying screwdrivers price is not really important, a screwdriver for most purposes, is a screwdriver. Try to get ones with medium sized tips and medium length (approximately 8" or so.). A good option if you don't want to have more tools than you have to laying around is to buy screwdriver that accepts a variety of bits, which are small removable metal tips with the various heads on them (common or Phillips-head) as shown below.


These will usually be more expensive than buying single screwdriver of either type, but can usually be had for less than 10 dollars. They will usually include at least 4 different types of heads (large and small common, and large and small Phillips-head) some even have a racheting action or provisions for specialty bits.

As far as screwdriver safety, most, if not all of the danger comes from putting a lot of pressure on the screwdriver and it then slipping. Be sure to exercise caution when putting pressure on a screwdriver and ensure that there is nothing in any path it may take if it slips from its workpiece.

Wearing gloves and safety glasses is, as with any project using tools, a good idea.

Must-Have Tools

Growing up, we all had tools in our houses. All of us probably know what a hammer is, and a screwdriver. Our fathers probably had a decent cache of tools in the garage even if it would be a stretch to call him a Handyman. However, sooner or later we move out, go to college, move away, start working, probably switching dorm rooms or apartments every year or so. Most of us probably never think to bring tools along, there's always a handy friend around, or a helpful landlord.

But finally we decide to settle down, rent or buy a nice home or apartment, and get enough things under control that you have time to notice that ugly crack above the doorway, or that leaky faucet, or loose light fixture. Most of these things are probably too minor for someone to come and fix, but you want it taken care of. But how? you probably have very few tools on hand, maybe the odd hex wrench from that bookcase from Ikea, or a rusty pair of pliers that the previous owners left under the sink. Definitely not enough to take care of the things that need to be taken care of around the house. So where do you start?

Well, start here: I have compiled a list of the minimum set of tools needed by every homeowner, no matter if you he or she is the least technically inclined person around. Ive tried to keep it short, so a lot of potentially useful things have been left out, but the ones on the list are useful in a multitude of ways, and will be necessary for any job around the house. The next few posts will detail each tool.

Beginnings

The idea to start this blog came a month ago, when while in the course of performing one of the dozens of repairs on the three rental properties my mother owns I ran into a small and simple problem with something I was working on. Naturally, as a child of the internet age I headed straight to the web for help.

A quick google search led to a lot of links on the issue, however few were useful. Many were from people like me searching for answers by posting on a forum. These were generally unanswered. The ones that did result in answers yielded answers that were either patronizing and short, or linked to short how-to DIY pages that were not detailed and very general, and required a considerable amount of prior knowledge.

Needless to say, the internet let me down on this one, and I eventually figured it out on my own. But I realized that there are many things around the house that people should absolutely know if they own or rent a home or apartment. However, there is no easy resource anywhere that can provide the basic skills that it seems everyone once needed to know in previous eras, but are now fading out of common knowledge.

This also is the age of HGTV, the DIY network, and a variety of popular and established home improvement shows, as well as a general increase in the DIY ethic of the American Public as evidenced by the popularity of big box home improvement stores such as The Home Depot (THD) and Lowe's.

These two seemingly paradoxical trends represent a problem to me. It seems that the opportunities to bite off more than one can chew are endless when they have easy access to everything they need to do even complex jobs around the home, yet the access to knowledge needed to do them has not caught up. (if you need proof, ask for advice about how to do something easy you already know how to do from an employee of THD and see how often they know less about it than you do).

So with all of that in mind, I am creating WISE-GRIPS to try to fill that knowledge gap, by taking the most basic approach to home care and home improvement possible (the "born-yesterday" approach). I will take the same thorough and detailed approach to explaining how to use screwdriver as to use a power compound miter saw.

So happy reading. I hope to post once a week, but as I have just graduated from college and am in the midst of a grueling job search things may get thrown off schedule.